RIGHT: One of the temples on the Henro trail; The statue figured is of a pilgrim in traditional dress...
It has only been 19 years since the opening of a complete bridge link between Honshu (the main island of Japan) and Shikoku, so, by Japanese standards, it is still a fairly undeveloped place. One of the 3 now existing links, alongside the Shimanami expressway, allows transit for pedestrians and cyclists, with convenient cycle hire places at various places along the way. I intended to tackle this route on a one day trip from Matsuyama; so an early start was required.
In total, between the major cities at either end, the bike route is about 60km; quite a fair distance, and since I intended to return to Matsuyama at the close of the day needless to say I didn`t make it all the way. Riding from about 8am; with a stop for lunch, I made it past the first 5 of the 8 bridges, Ikuchi by about 1pm.
This was my turn around time; thinking the trip back would take considerably longer; finding instead that most of it was cruising downhill or on the flat! So if you plan to cycle one way; do it from Honshu to Shikoku!
As Japan is just emerging from the frostiness of winter, the beach (featured in the picture!) off the islands invited me to swim, and although it was freezing it was good to be in the water! There was even a fish (of edible size!) bouncing in and out of the water about 10m from me! A little scary... Deep, and what is that fish running away from? Fish don`t usually jump out of the water right?
So fishing enthusiasts, if you`re on holidays in Japan...
In the centre of the island of Shikoku there are a number of rivers that have carved out beautiful valleys and a gorge; a beautiful destination for the off the track tourist, that even many Japanese I have spoken to do not know about. (Oboke? 知らない...).
RIGHT: One view of the 90yo Japanese house become hostel that I stayed in... And had all to myself for one of the nights!
There are 2 routes through this region; the 32 highway, which follows the Yoshino river and the old 32, which follows the gorge. The buses are expensive and infrequent; you`re better off catching a lift with a local (since there`s only the 2 main roads you`re unlikely to end up somewhere random), but if you`re in a vehicle you can`t stop for photos and to peep down at the gorge on those narrow turns... So I walked.
So, when some old random Jap guy pulled up in his ute, so I caught a lift to the intersection with the new 32; along which the train line runs, to get back to Oboke. The strange thing was, that while I`ve been finding I can catch about 35-50% of what people say, and so guess their meaning, this guy`s accent was so thick I could only catch about one in every 15-20 words: I really had no idea what he was going on about! Let`s hope that was a country accent, not the Osaka accent I hear so much about, otherwise living in Osaka from next month is gonna be fun!
Nagasaki is a lovely town, similar to Uwajima in topography with little hills all about, I pity the poor little old Japanese ladies who live at the top of those hills! With mountains on 3 sides and a port, this town is long (hence the name: Nagai (長い)= long), but the frequent trams system from one end to another is only ¥100 (a dollar).



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